This is a series of articles about the stories behind fashion products and things that go on behind the scenes, delivering with a bit of a scathing perspective but with a love of products. Atsuo Watanabe, editor-in-chief of PRODISM magazine, Yukihisa Takei, editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM, and Takuya Raita, a stylist, choose a theme each time and talk about the products we have selected. We have picked out the latest items that caught our eyes from five different brands!
Edit&Text : Atsuo Watanabe（PRODISM）&Yukihisa Takei（HONEYEE.COM）
Styling : Takuya Raita
Photo : Kengo Shimizu
doublet
BURNING EMBROIDERY SUPERMARKET BAG
“The determination to make an idea into a product is remarkable” (Takei)
Takuya Raita (R): Diversity is one of the doublet's themes for this season, and models walked in the show wearing 3D masks featuring the face of the virtual model, imma.
Yukihisa Takei (T): I went to that show. It was held in a studio that replicates the scramble crossing in Tochigi. This season also took its theme from “gal” and Shibuya culture.
Atsuo Watanabe (W): Is this a balaclava?
R: It’s designed to look ripped and burnt but this is a bag (laughs).
T: It's very detailed, using threads to create the burnt-out-like texture...
W: But hasn’t it got more blank space than storage space?
R: It's a serious joke (laughs).
W: I still think the idea of doublet is exciting, but personally I'd like to see more straightforward designs, not just oddballs. I understand the designer used to work for Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO, so he has taken over Mihara-san's philosophy.
T: Mihara-san's clothes are designed to create communication. I think those elements are contained in doublet.
W: But I’m also looking forward to seeing some clean tailoring or serious clothes from doublet soon. I mean, how long will the brand continue with this approach?
R: I think it's great that they've been making environmentally friendly clothes these days, not just quirky ideas. I also heard that they use fabrics that return to the soil.
W: Well, do we need this one then? (laughs)
T: I personally like it, whether I use it or not. The determination to make an idea into a product is remarkable.
This bag is designed like a convenience store plastic bag, with stitchwork that makes it look as if half of the bag has been burnt. It expresses the "serious fun” that's very typical of doublet.
doublet
BURNING EMBROIDERY SUPERMARKET BAG ¥26,300 / doublet (ENKEL)
Tel: 03-6812-9897
Goldwin 0
Shell Jacket
“It has the atmosphere of the 2000s outdoor brands but is designed for modern days” (Raita)
W: Goldwin 0, made its debut this year.
R: Yes, a piece from that new project, made of Spiber Inc.'s Brewed ProteinTM material.
W: It's got a decent weight to it. I thought it would be lighter.
T: This material (Spiber's Brewed ProteinTM) is an artificial protein, right?
R: Yes, it's not petroleum-based, so it doesn't emit microplastics, and it has a low impact on the environment.
W: The texture of this jacket is also rough and interesting, different from nylon and other petroleum-based materials.
R: The material too, but it's a very modern jacket.
T: What kind of project is Goldwin 0 anyways?
R: Apparently, two designers from the overseas team and the Goldwin team from Tokyo and Toyama are working on it together, and all the production is done in Japan. So it has the atmosphere of the 2000s outdoor brands but is designed for modern days.
W: The materials incorporate cutting-edge technology, and also the design is futuristic.
R: The comfort when wearing it and the fit when you put your hands in the pockets is very nice.
T: I can see certain outdoor elements when you actually wear it, and the silhouette is more three-dimensional than other ordinary outdoor outerwear.
A shell jacket from Goldwin 0, the new project launched this season by Goldwin, is made from Brewed ProteinTM, a material developed by Spiber Inc. that is based on plant resources and produced by microbial fermentation, the latest material introduced a few years ago which has made a big impact. The piece perfectly fits this era when sustainability is even more important.
Goldwin 0
Shell Jacket ¥132,000 / Goldwin 0 (Goldwin Customer Service Center)
Tel: 0120-307-560
NEEDLES
Pajama Set
“you could wear them as easy pants or as ‘one-mile wear’” (Watanabe)
R: Needles has released its first pajamas. They come with a drawstring bag and are available in five colors.
W: I think these will look better as you wear them.
R: It looks like samue (jacket and pant suits that originated with Zen monks), but especially the pants look comfortable to wear.
T: They're supposed to be pyjamas, but you could go outside with this set.
W: You could even wear them separately.
T: But I never thought that this butterfly logo would gain so much popularity. I feel like it used to be more like an independent symbol.
R: It's incredible how their tracksuits are still so popular.
W: They are pajamas, but you could wear them as easy pants or as one-mile wear (comfortable clothes that you can wear at home or within a one-mile radius of your home).
T: It might be a good gift. Giving Needles' tracksuit is too straightforward, so something like this might be unexpected and nice.
W: The price is not too cheap, so it’s good to give them as a gift to someone close to you.
Needles has finally extended the range to evening loungewear. They have been designed as pajamas, but could be worn in a variety of ways, such as comfort wear. Maybe the fact that tracksuits have become items to wear for going out more than before is also the reason behind the launch of these pajamas?
NEEDLES
Pajama Set ¥25,300 / NEEDLES (Nepenthes)
Tel: 03-3400-7227
Insonnia Projects
Salvador Dali TEE
“I wish museum shops would sell these kinds of things” (Takei)
R: Insonnia Projects originally started as a knitwear brand, but recently they've started producing printed items with a great sense of style. These motifs are based on the works of (Salvador) Dalí.
W: I like the sense of its vintage feel.
R: The washed finish on the body works well.
T: I wish museum shops would sell these kinds of things. I like museum shops, but the T-shirts they actually sell are lame.
W: These days, even consumable goods are often designed by designers, so why don't museums design their merchandising cool? How much are these?
R: It’s ¥10,780.
T: I want to buy and wear it even more now.
Graphic T-shirts by Insonnia Projects, which started as a knitwear brand. The T-shirts featuring Salvador Dali's work are more than just 'art souvenir T-shirts', with a well-balanced mix of the choice of artwork, the print and the finish of the body.
Insonnia Projects
TEE ¥10,780 (STUDIO FABWORK)
Tel: 03-6438-9575
cantate
Traveler Bag
“The design is based on L.L.Bean, but it's crafted in a higher quality” (Takei)
R: It's a Japanese brand ''cantate'' and the designer is still in his early thirties. I also heard he is a foodie, so he is very particular about the materials he uses when making products. The bag itself is a homage to L.L.Bean, and the handles are made of the same leather as the luxury brands use.
W: Where are these available at?
R: The brand has recently opened a shop in Yoyogi, so you can purchase them there.
T: The design is based on L.L.Bean, but it's crafted in a higher quality.
W: This size could be used to go for sports.
T: Canvas bags get worn out as you use them, but that also seems to give them a good charm. The price is high, so it's good for someone who can enjoy the ageing process.
cantate has been much talked about in recent years as a high end fashion brand that makes full use of the craftsmanship and finest materials of Japan's artisans, and success and archives the rare skills that are being lost. The designer is Shin Matsushima. The items introduced here also take the classic tote bag to a luxurious level.
cantate
Left Shoulder Tote Bag ￥55,000, Right Traveler Bag ¥154,000 / cantate (cliche)
Tel: 03-6407-0300
(From left to right) Atsuo Watanabe, Editor-in-Chief of PRODISM, Takuya Raita, Stylist, Yukihisa Takei, HONEYEE.COM)
Atsuo Watanabe / Editor-in-Chief, PRODISM
Born in 1973. After working as an editor for Asayan and Huge, he became a freelance editor and launched the product-focused magazine PRODISM in 2013, where he continues to work as the editor in chief. He is well versed in men's fashion, sneakers, and streetwear, and has a unique aesthetic.
Takuya Raita / Stylist
Born in 1986. Having assisted for Hiroyuki Kai, he became independent in 2012. While working mainly for men's fashion magazines, he is also known for his product styling that sensitively incorporates trends. Currently looking for an assistant.
Yukihisa Takei / HONEYEE.COM
Born in 1972. After working as an editor of the magazine EYESCREAM, he became the editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM, but resigned after one year. After working as a freelance editor and creative director for various brand websites and media launches, he returned to his post as editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM in the fall of 2021.