Technical Outerwear Vol.2
This is a series of articles about the stories behind fashion products and things that go on behind the scenes, delivered with a bit of a scathing perspective but with a love of products. Atsuo Watanabe, editor-in-chief of PRODISM magazine, Yukihisa Takei, editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM, and Takuya Raita, a stylist, choose a theme each time and talk about the products they have selected. In the second part of "Technical Outerwear ", we have selected key shell jackets from 5 brands.
Edit&Text : Atsuo Watanabe（PRODISM）&Yukihisa Takei（HONEYEE.COM）
Styling : Takuya Raita
Photo : Kengo Shimizu
Goldwin
GORE-TEX PRO Jacket
“This is like ‘luxury outdoor gear’.”（Watanabe）
Takuya Raita (R): The first one in the second half is Goldwin’s hardshell jacket.
Atsuo Watanabe (W): Is this for the spring/summer season?
R: Nope, it's their regular product.
W: Oh, that's a functionally legit one.
Yukihisa Takei (T): They use GORE-TEX PRODUCTS PRO, so it's a legit product.
R: It's amazing that the zip doesn't get stuck at all when opening and closing.
T: The height of the neck is also designed to prevent snow from getting in.
W: But it's too plain to wear in the city.
T: That's true. I also don't like the crinkling sound when I wear it.
R: That's definitely something I'm concerned about. I don't like the sound it makes, but recently Goldwin has been really functional and I think it's a cool piece as it's not extravagant or frilly.
W: This is like "luxury outdoor gear".
R: Personally, if I'm going to wear a techwear jacket, I like it to be as simple as this one, without logos.
W: The arms are designed wide, so even if people wear a suit or a jacket at work, they can wear it over the top on rainy days. It might be a good choice for people who are bored with business people's coats and want a different kind of outerwear.
R: The silhouette is also very modern.
W: I like that the collar is high enough to hide the tie.
T: And the colour is just right.
R: It's simple enough to be worn on a formal occasion.
W: Maybe it's a bit too high-tech clothing, but it's luxurious to wear as formal outerwear. Yet it's not too casual as it's not a tracksuit. It looks like you don't even need an umbrella if you wear it. And it also has ventilation, right?
R: Yep, this is a good jacket considering all of that.
W: It's good for business people who cycle to work.
R: Personally, it would have been better if the silhouette was a bit more rounded.
The GORE-TEX PRODUCTS PRO 3-layer waterproof, breathable and strong hardshell jacket from Goldwin is ideal for winter traverses up to 3000m and ice climbing. The “Musasabi (flying squirrel)" pattern and overall patterning design also allow for flexibility of movement. It's a real mountain jacket, but with a simple design that fits in well to wear in the city.
Goldwin
GORE-TEX PRO Jacket
¥82,500/Goldwin Harajuku TEL: 03-6419-7920
SOPHNET. × Marmot
THNDERLIGHT JKT
“SOPHNET. always sees half a step ahead of the trend”（Takei）
R: The next item is a collaboration between SOPHNET. and Marmot. It's an alpine model "Thunderlight Jacket" which was popular in the ‘90s.
T: Was Marmot popular in the ‘90s? I don't remember it at all.
W: I remember The North Face shells were very popular among the hip hop culture. I think Marmot was also a part of that trend.
R: Marmot is said to be the next upcoming brand, isn't it?
W: I'm not sure about that (laughs).
T: Well, maybe they are. I'm curious that SOPHNET. collaborated with them, because SOPHNET. always sees half a step ahead of the trend, so when SOPHNET. does something, it's like the right thing to do. They're like the start of a boom.
W: SOPH. has been producing mountain parkas since the early days of the brand. This doesn't have all the elements of the brand, but I think it's a collaboration that only SOPH. could make. Personally, this is probably the piece I would put on when I leave the house without thinking anything.
R: I like the detail on the sleeve pockets.
W: That's the unique detail of SOPH., when they do exclusive outerwear, they usually put a zip pocket on the left sleeve. It's a kind of the signature point.
R: Wow, you know everything (laughs).
T: I didn't know that. I'm impressed (laughs).
R: They are a sophisticated brand, aren't they? They are good at making stylish items that other brands don't make as exclusive items.
W: Of course, I can sense the leeway in their products (laughs).
SOPHNET. adapted the iconic Marmot alpine model of the 1990s, the waterproof and breathable 3-layer shell "Thunderlight Jacket". Their classic details such as the zip pocket on the left cuff and the Scorpion logo embroidery on the right cuff are discreetly customised. Also available in black and purple.
SOPHNET. × Marmot
THNDERLIGHT JKT
¥53,900/SOPH. TEL: 03-5775-2290
N.HOOLYWOOD TEST PRODUCT EXCHANGE SERVICE
WATERPROOF JACKET
“The bad guy in the movie ‘Die Hard 2’ wear something like this too”（Watanabe）
R: This is a three-layer jacket from N.HOOLYWOOD.
T: I didn't know they released something like this at all.
R: This is a new product from N.HOOLYWOOD TEST PRODUCT EXCHANGE SERVICE, and I thought it was interesting that they released it in the winter season and chose white as the colour. It's white, but it's waterproof and water-repellent, so it won't get dirty or stained.
W: This is lined with fleece, right?
R: I've almost never seen such a functional blouson in white before, it's inspired by the outerwear worn by German special forces in the 2000s.
T: Is that camouflage for snowy areas?
W: Do they wear such thin outerwear in snowy regions?
R: It depends on how you layer it. But apparently, it was actually worn in the snowy mountains.
W: The white outerwear of SEVEN BY SEVEN we picked out last time too, but I guess these are meant to be released with an approach like a new standard for urban wear.
R: That said, it's still difficult to wear as everyday wear.......
W: Didn't the bad guy in the movie "Die Hard 2" wear something like this too?
T: Yeah, that's what I was going to say (laughs).
W: We're both in that generation (laughs). But it's not that bizarre when I actually put it on.
R: You can't see it at a glance, but the outer fabric is very intricate.
T: Yes, it's quite a fashionable item. Although I think the black one sells better.
W: It will look cool if the designer, Obana-kun, wears it, and I think it will go well with vintage clothes.
N.HOOLYWOOD TEST PRODUCT EXCHANGE SERVICE selects the finest military outerwear and updates it to modern standards. It's inspired by the jacket worn by the German Special Forces in the 2000s in the snowy mountains, pursuing functional detailing and cold protection, with three layers that are waterproof, water repellent and breathable. Although it's difficult to put together, we've chosen a white model. Also available in black.
N.HOOLYWOOD TEST PRODUCT EXCHANGE SERVICE
WATERPROOF JACKET
¥79,200/Mister hollywood TEL: 03-5414-5071
and wander
Schoeller 3XDRY Stretch Jacket
“I can see the use of details of European outdoor brands.”（Raita）
R: This one is a stretch jacket from and wander.
T: They're a very popular brand overseas too, right?
R: This jacket has a gimmick such as using the reflector as a thread.
W: I think this is the one I don't need the most among all.
T: That's very straightforward (laughs). But it's a brand that has a certain number of fans in Japan.
W: Of course, I understand that. But I don't like the way the zips are used on this jacket. Especially the long zips on both sides. I could understand if it was a pullover, but I don't think it's necessary for a full-zip jacket. The whole thing gives the impression of a "zip monster".
T: The brand has become more functional and serious about it than in the past.
R: In terms of design, I can see the use of details of European outdoor brands. I think that's why it's so popular overseas, too.
W: I can understand the reason why Moncler collaborates with them. You know it's a good design.
T: I think that since the brand has expanded, they have been able to use a lot of high-tech materials, and they have become more popular.
W: So it's a brand that's going through a period of change?
R: They are quite a different brand from other techwear brands.
This jacket is made of Schoeller 3XDRY, a fabric that is water repellent, oil repellent, quick-drying and breathable. The large pockets on the hips are mesh and function as ventilation. The reflector stitching and reflector parts enhance the visibility at night, while also adding an accent to the design.
and wander
Schoeller 3XDRY Stretch Jacket
¥71,500/and wander TEL: 03-5787-3460
nanamica
2L GORE-TEX Short Soutien Collar Coat
“I just thought there doesn't emerge the second nanamica brand.”（Watanabe）
R: The last one is nanamica's GORE-TEX outerwear.
W: Is this a standard coat that they have been releasing?
R: This one is new for this season, but this collared coat has established itself in the scene.
W: I think people who like it have two or three different designs.
R: Was it nanamica who started to make these high-tech coats?
T: I guess so. Or other brands might have been releasing at the same time.
W: While there were only a few brands that can use GORE-TEX, I think nanamica has been doing it for a long time.
T: But the existence of the brand itself is a bit mysterious, including the relationship with The North Face.
R: There are not many brands that use GORE-TEX for the lining these days. There used to be a lot of them a while ago.
T: They remained as "the pioneer of tech casual" until today.
W: And the price is unbelievably reasonable!
R: nanamica's clothes look just as modern when you wear them up a size.
W: That's right, sizing is actually the key to nanamica. It can be too tight or too loose, so I think it's definitely a brand that you should try on before purchasing. Most of the clothes are simple, but sometimes the silhouette can be a bit tricky.
T: Do you have any items from nanamica?
W: I used to buy a lot of stuff at the Daikanyama store as one of my friends work there. I used to wear this GORE-TEX collared coat a lot.
T: This ¥53,000 price feels quite cheap when other brands are increasing their prices.
W: I apologise, but I may not have anything bad to say about this one (laughs). If I have to comment, I'd say they haven't changed too much? But also, I just thought there doesn't emerge the second nanamica brand.
R: There are not so many brands that combine function and fashion well, I think.
W: Well, nanamica is a pioneer and the products are very high quality, so it's not so easy for other brands to follow.
R: I think that's what DAIWA PIER39 is going for now. There is a lot of one-tone functional outerwear, but I don't see many shells that feature fabric first.
W: What I can say this time overall is that we only had plain items, and there were no loud items with prints or anything like that.
R: Is it because of the trend?
W: I think it's hard to show individuality if it's all monochrome. That's why they complement it with functional parts. I'm not trying to be critical, but it would be nice to see more flashy products.
T: Well, that's a wrap for today, see you next time!
The GORE-TEX collared coat has become a staple at nanamica. The new model comes in a short length with raglan sleeves. The fabric is made from 2L Polyester Twill GORE-TEX Fabrics and the inner lining is a checkered cotton and coolmax® fabric. It's a versatile piece that's perfect for both business and casual wear and can be used on any day whether it rains or not.
nanamica
2L GORE-TEX Short Soutien Collar Coat
¥58,300/nanamica TOKYO TEL: 03-5728-3266
(From left to right) Atsuo Watanabe, Editor-in-Chief of PRODISM, Takuya Raita, Stylist, Yukihisa Takei, HONEYEE.COM)
Atsuo Watanabe / Editor-in-Chief, PRODISM
Born in 1973. After working as an editor for Asayan and Huge, he became a freelance editor and launched the product-focused magazine PRODISM in 2013, where he continues to work as the editor in chief. He is well versed in men's fashion, sneakers, and streetwear, and has a unique aesthetic.
Takuya Raita / Stylist
Born in 1986. Having assisted for Hiroyuki Kai, he became independent in 2012. While working mainly for men's fashion magazines, he is also known for his product styling that sensitively incorporates trends. Currently looking for an assistant.
Yukihisa Takei / HONEYEE.COM
Born in 1972. After working as an editor of the magazine EYESCREAM, he became the editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM, but resigned after one year. After working as a freelance editor and creative director for various brand websites and media launches, he returned to his post as editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM in the fall of 2021.