This is a series of articles about the stories behind fashion products and things that go on behind the scenes, delivering with a bit of a scathing perspective but with a love of products. Atsuo Watanabe, editor-in-chief of PRODISM magazine, Yukihisa Takei, editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM, and Takuya Raita, a stylist, choose a theme each time and talk about the products we have selected. We have picked out the latest items that caught our eyes from five different brands!
Edit&Text : Atsuo Watanabe（PRODISM）&Yukihisa Takei（HONEYEE.COM）
Styling : Takuya Raita
Photo : Kengo Shimizu
NEAT
Wool Gabardine Embroidery Tapered
“There’s not many embroidery designs on wool slacks” (Raita)
Takuya Raita (R): NEAT is a slacks brand started by (Daishi) Nishino-san, who was originally working in PR for Brooks Brothers. The motif of these embroideries is based on photos of people that Nishino-san took himself during his travels in the US.
Yukihisa Takei (T): Nishino-san also runs a trousers brand called TapWater with (Takayuki) Minami-san from Graphpaper.
Atsuo Watanabe (W): He's a real expert, a "professional of trousers" then.
R: I agree, NEAT is also based on the concept of "wear your trousers neatly at least".
T: Although there are fewer tucked trousers that need to be adjusted the length to wear in the market, I've heard that they are doing surprisingly well.
W: NEAT has had a huge influence on the recent trend for loose-fitting slacks. But I have the impression that they always do plain slacks, so I'd never seen these embroidery ones before.
R: This kind of design is quite rare even for NEAT, and although you often see embroidery on corduroy trousers, it’s not very common for wool slacks.
T: Normally it tends to get wrinkled, but you can see the embroidery is done even on the belt loops. It's something that other brands wouldn't do.
R: This one is also very unique that is designed based on military guruka shorts.
T: They're shorts but with tucked design, so they look neat.
R: I have a pair of slacks too, and I think the brand is elegant and makes me brace myself up when wearing them.
New items from NEAT, a brand specialising in slacks launched in 2015. These slacks are embroidered on a basic wool gabardine fabric with the motif of “American Uncle", which the designer, Nishino-san, photographed when he visited the US.
NEAT
Wool Gabardine Embroidery Tapered ¥49,500, Gurkha Shorts ¥44,000 (NISHINOYA)
TEL: 03-6434-0983
HEUGN
New Regular Shirt
“It might be perfect for people like us who don't have to wear a suit to work” (Watanabe)
W: That is such a beautiful shirt.
R: I heard they are particular about the sizing, it's not just a big silhouette, but designed to look nice even when tucked in. This piece of clothing has a mature feel to it.
T: The materials also seem to be very high quality.
W: They've been around for about five years, haven't they? Where are they available to purchase?
R: Multi-label stores such as UNITED ARROWS and L'ECHOPPE.
T: But it's impressive that a shirt costing 35,000 yen is selling so well regularly. Especially for a casual item like this, not a dress shirt.
W: The design is not driven by trends, so if you want a striped shirt, it may be a good option. It also might be perfect for people like us who don't have to wear a suit to work.
R: I've heard that there are a lot of core fans, like people in their 30s who are not in the apparel industry but into fashion.
W: It's clothing for mature people, including the price.
HEUGN continues to grow in popularity for its silhouettes and use of materials in its minimalist designs. The shirts are one of the brand's most popular items and this piece is a perfect mix of dress-like style and casual vibe.
HEUGN
Shirts Alan ¥38,500 (IDEAS)
TEL: 03-6869-4279
TANAKA
Printed T-shirt
“They’re collection based brand incorporating an exquisite sense of high fashion, different from the current Japanese fashion trend” (Watanabe)
R: The brand was founded around five years ago by a female designer based in New York, who had previously worked for brands such as Yohji Yamamoto and UNIQLO. This time I selected T-shirts, but they have a good reputation for making denim and basic clothes, and each item showcases a great sense of the designer.
T: First and foremost, the brand name is so catchy. It's very straightforward and a very common name in Japan.
R: The number of stockists has increased further this season, and I think there will be even more next season.
W: Are they available overseas?
R: It was mainly for overseas until recently, but I see they are also stocked at major multi-label stores in Japan these days.
T: When you look at this one closer, it's even more impressive. I thought the image is printed but it's actually sewn on the T-shirt.
W: It takes a lot of time and effort.
R: The part of this image is made of 100% silk.
T: It's not just that part, but the T-shirt itself has a nice and soft touch.
W: Who took this photo?
R: This is taken by Konami (Jiro) San. They’re both based in New York, so I heard they’re going to do another one together for the next season.
W: It gives off a foreign atmosphere, doesn't it? I think it's a collection based brand that incorporates an exquisite sense of high fashion, different from the current Japanese fashion trend.
T: I like the fact that she didn't even arrange her name to make it fashionable, but just named the brand 'TANAKA' as it is. W: Currently, when you say 'TANAKA', it's either this brand or Kushikatsu.
TANAKA has gained popularity over the last few years as a New York-based brand by a Japanese designer. The brand concept is "clothes that weave together the past 100 years and the next 100 years" and is also committed to sustainability. The T-shirts introduced here use the images by Jiro Konami, a photographer currently living in New York.
TANAKA
THE TEE Left ¥22,000, Right ¥24,200 (TANAKA)
contact@tanakanytyo.com
NICENESS
Leather Bag
“I might not even tell if you tell it's from a luxury brand” (Takei)
R: It's one of my favourite brands that I also personally wear. Every time they release something, the items sell out quickly.
W: I feel like I started to see NICENESS more often in the last few years. Is this bag a new release?
R: It's made of the finest deerskin leather, and they have a standard series of leather bags, but I think this is the newest in the series. NICENESS often uses high-quality leather.
T: I see, I might not tell if you say it's from a certain luxury brand.
R: Many brands make no compromises on materials these days, but I think there have been more since NICENESS started the brand. For your information, the price is about ¥80,000.
W: It's impressive that it's still going to sell out. It means they have properly built up a fanbase.
R: The brand seems to be popular at local multi-label stores, too, and I think that's a strength as a brand to have customers outside Tokyo.
NICENESS' luxurious bag, made from the finest deerskin leather. The two-way design can also be used as a handbag by detaching the joint hidden in the gusset at the bottom corner and using the drawcord.
NICENESS
ROGER ¥75,900 (ELIGHT Inc.)
TEL：03-6712-7034
HERILL
Cardigan
“It's useful to have something like this piece to change the taste of your T-shirts and other items” (Takei)
R: The designer, (Hiroyuki) Oshima-san, who originally worked in product planning at a major designer brand and a multi-label store, runs this brand that does not compromise on materials or manufacturing and is slowly gaining popularity recently.
T: I think their see-through knitwear is particularly popular, right?
R: That’s right, they’re originally famous for their knitwear and cashmere items.
W: Do they also make women's wear? I feel like I saw a woman wearing this brand.
R: The fact that they’re a gender-neutral brand is probably another reason for its popularity. But this one is see-through, so I think it's quite difficult to coordinate.
T: But I've also heard that it's useful to have something like this as you can wear graphic or bold-colored items inside, and that can change the taste of the T-shirt or anything you wear.
W: It’s just this one is made of a thin gauge, there are different ones made of other materials, right?
R: They also release items made of suvin cotton and, cashmere pieces in the Autumn/Winter season.
W: I think it would look better wearing in a larger size. But isn't the size of the brand tag on the inside kind of iffy? I don't think it needs a tag or anything that stands out because I feel their attention to the material and design. It's a shame because I want to slip it on.
R: It might stand out if you look at it from behind.
W: I would definitely remove it.
The see-through knit cardigan is one of HERILL's most popular items. It may seem to be a tricky item, but it gives a wide range of coordination to your outfit by wearing it with a T-shirt and other items. The arrangement and silhouette of the hem and ribs are also unique.
HERILL
Ramie High Gauge Cardigan ¥55,000 (NISHINOYA)
TEL: 03-6434-0983
(From left to right) Atsuo Watanabe, Editor-in-Chief of PRODISM, Takuya Raita, Stylist, Yukihisa Takei, HONEYEE.COM)
Atsuo Watanabe / Editor-in-Chief, PRODISM
Born in 1973. After working as an editor for Asayan and Huge, he became a freelance editor and launched the product-focused magazine PRODISM in 2013, where he continues to work as the editor in chief. He is well versed in men's fashion, sneakers, and streetwear, and has a unique aesthetic.
Takuya Raita / Stylist
Born in 1986. Having assisted for Hiroyuki Kai, he became independent in 2012. While working mainly for men's fashion magazines, he is also known for his product styling that sensitively incorporates trends. Currently looking for an assistant.
Yukihisa Takei / HONEYEE.COM
Born in 1972. After working as an editor of the magazine EYESCREAM, he became the editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM, but resigned after one year. After working as a freelance editor and creative director for various brand websites and media launches, he returned to his post as editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM in the fall of 2021.