This is a series of articles about the stories behind fashion products and things that go on behind the scenes, delivering with a bit of a scathing perspective but with a love of products. Atsuo Watanabe, editor-in-chief of PRODISM magazine, Yukihisa Takei, editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM, and Takuya Raita, a stylist, choose a theme each time and talk about the products we have selected. We have picked out the latest items that caught our eyes from five different brands!
Edit&Text : Atsuo Watanabe（PRODISM）&Yukihisa Takei（HONEYEE.COM）
Styling : Takuya Raita
Photo : Kengo Shimizu
CFCL
Knitted Jacket
“It's simply beautiful as a product, including the color scheme” (Watanabe)
Takuya Raita (R): The brand is distinctive for its knitwear, using 3D computerised knitting. All garments are made to avoid producing any waste fabric from an environmental perspective. CFCL is founded by Takahashi (Yusuke) San, who previously worked as a designer at ISSEY MIYAKE MEN.
Atsuo Watanabe (W): Having designed for ISSEY MIYAKE, the way he uses colors and knits is incredible as expected.
Yukihisa Takei (T): I can see that the silhouette is very unique to the use of computer programming.
W: It's simply beautiful as a product, including the color scheme.
R: There aren't many items with this kind of colorway these days, and it's great that this is machine washable.
W: It's stylish and the way it's made is so professional. It's such a unique design but looks comfortable to wear.
T: It may be unexpectedly easy to pull it off.
W: It's loud but not flashy at all, and the more you actually wear it, the more you can tell its quality.
R: They also make knitted trousers and T-shirts as well as bucket hats and thought it’s interesting.
W: Knitwear is getting a lot of attention again from a sustainable perspective, too. I think CFCL will become one of the leading brands of technical knitwear.
This blouson by CFCL, with its rounded, bulky silhouette, is named STRATUM because of its fine groove texture. The striking coloring shows a high level of attention to detail as well as to each color.
CFCL
STRATUM BLOUSON ¥69,300（CFCL）
cfcl.jp
FUMITO GANRYU
M51 Shirt Jacket
“The QR code raises a question about the situation that brand logos are consumed as a symbol” (Raita)
R: This piece is a reinterpretation of a mod coat into a flannel shirt.
T: So it's a mod coat but the collar is like a shirt?
W: This is supposed to be worn as outerwear, right? I personally really like this check pattern.
T: You’re right, it's shirt outerwear.
R: Flannel shirts are currently very popular.
W: At any rate, it's very well made. Every single item of FUMITO GANRYU is just so cool.
R: It raises a question about the situation that brand logos are consumed as a symbol by giving the logo a function as a QR code.
T: Oh, this tag has velcro to detach.
W: So you can just remove it if you don't want it? Well, I don’t have an impression that they emphasize its logo that much.
R: I always felt it depends on the sense of style of the person who wears FUMITO GANRYU, but this one looks easy to wear for anyone.
T: The brand has yet again developed its style even further since he left COMME des GARÇONS.
A shirt jacket by FUMITO GANRYU, designed combining M51 mod coat and shirt. Just by looking at this hybrid item, you can see it’s such a useful piece.
FUMITO GANRYU
M-51 SHIRTS JACKET ¥53,900（FUMITO GANRYU ）
fumitoganryu.jp
ALMOSTBLACK
T-shirt
“They have different values from other brands making only universal clothes” (Raita)
R: T-shirts from ALMOSTBLACK, a brand with the concept of 'Post-Japonisme’, which draws design inspiration each season from traditional crafts and art.
T: It's unique that the title of the artwork is printed on each T-shirt.
R: The T-shirt itself is like artwork.
T: The design is interesting, but it's also pretty stylish.
R: ALMOSTBLACK often produces highly designed clothes.
W: I personally prefer products that tell a strong sense of seasonality like these.
R: They also release costume-like items, which I think would suit musicians. I feel like they have different values from other brands that only make universal clothes. I would love to see these iconic items every season.
ALMOSTBLACK expresses their aesthetic of art with these T-shirts by incorporating the title of the artwork as a graphic. Rather than simply using the artwork as just a graphic design, it also shows respect for the artist.
ALMOSTBLACK
Right ¥28,600, Left ¥24,200 (ALMOSTBLACK)
info@almostblack.jp
ENCOMING
Landscape Shirt
“I think his greatest strength lies in his youthful ‘vigor’“ (Watanabe)
R: The brand is started by a designer in his late 20s who used to work at Nicholas Daley in London. He makes clothes that give off mature charm despite his age.
T: This shirt is interesting. The motif is from some photos, but it also looks like leopard print or something.
R: Apparently these are photos of the Alps taken by the designer during a trip across Italy.
W: The details and finish are still far from perfect, but I think his greatest strength lies in his youthful “vigor”. You can feel what the designer wants to create.
R: Having seen many brands, I find that clothes show the designer's personality. That's what I find interesting about fashion.
W: That's better for a collection based brand.
R: Many designers have experience abroad at a younger age these days. Maybe that global perspective is making a difference.
W: The quality of fine details and other things will improve naturally over time, so I want to see him continue to make things strictly that he likes.
T: It’s also got a vibe that could one day become a vintage piece.
The brand is founded by designer Taiki Kato, who studied fashion design at Kingston University in London, also worked as a senior designer at Nicholas Daley for two years. This landscape printed shirt is from the season that was inspired by his travels in Italy and features his photos on the shirt.
ENCOMING
LANDSCAPSHIRT ¥49,500（ELIGHT Inc.）
info@encoming.net
Taiga Takahashi
Leather Jacket
“You can't just produce this thing without talent and a good production” (Watanabe)
R: This is another young brand that is garnering attention.
W: The designers are both in the same generation, but the clothes are so rugged that’s completely opposite of ENCOMING from earlier.
R: I heard that the designer deep dives into vintage clothing almost like a researcher. The fit is generally tight because the collection is based on vintage, but it seems that young people wear it in just the right size.
T: I see, they wear this kind of clothes in just the right size. I mean, this one already has the feel of vintage clothing.
R: Interestingly, someone who has experience working for various Maison brands would make these clothes.
W: It's simply amazing that he's only in his 20s and can make this quality of the item. I can tell he loves fashion and clothes.
R: Other clothes he makes are also based on vintage pieces from the 1910s to the 1930s. He has such a unique point of view.
T: Well, back then, that was still before the mass production of clothes.
R: No wonder the brand concept includes the word 'archaeology'.
W: It's such an interesting concept to productise in that interpretation, and you can't just produce this thing without talent and good production. Well, he's the Indiana Jones born in the Heisei era (laughs).
A leather jacket by Taiga Takahashi, a young 27-year-old designer and contemporary artist who has been collecting a vast number of vintage clothes from over 70 to 100 years old since his teenage years, and whose brand philosophy is "Uncover future archaeological objects by reviving the relics of the past". Based on an American-made car coat from the 1930s, this artwork level piece is vegetable-tanned using natural astringent extracted from trees and plants, and also uses horsehide dyed by hand in mud in Amami Islands and plant-dyed nut buttons.
Taiga Takahashi
AUTOMOBILE LEATHER JACKET ¥528,000（Taiga Takahashi）
taigatakahashi.com
*Editor's note: We have received news that the designer Taiga Takahashi passes away on the day after this interview. We are all very shocked to hear this, as we were mentioning that "A 27-year-old Japanese designer is making such amazing clothes” at this BEHIND THE PRODUCT interview. We pray that Taiga Takahashi, a designer with great promise for the future, may he rest in peace.
(From left to right) Atsuo Watanabe, Editor-in-Chief of PRODISM, Takuya Raita, Stylist, Yukihisa Takei, HONEYEE.COM)
Atsuo Watanabe / Editor-in-Chief, PRODISM
Born in 1973. After working as an editor for Asayan and Huge, he became a freelance editor and launched the product-focused magazine PRODISM in 2013, where he continues to work as the editor in chief. He is well versed in men's fashion, sneakers, and streetwear, and has a unique aesthetic.
Takuya Raita / Stylist
Born in 1986. Having assisted for Hiroyuki Kai, he became independent in 2012. While working mainly for men's fashion magazines, he is also known for his product styling that sensitively incorporates trends. Currently looking for an assistant.
Yukihisa Takei / HONEYEE.COM
Born in 1972. After working as an editor of the magazine EYESCREAM, he became the editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM, but resigned after one year. After working as a freelance editor and creative director for various brand websites and media launches, he returned to his post as editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM in the fall of 2021.