BEHIND THE PRODUCT #14
2022.07.18

This is a series of articles about the stories behind fashion products and things that go on behind the scenes, delivering with a bit of a scathing perspective but with a love of products. Atsuo Watanabe, editor-in-chief of PRODISM magazine, Yukihisa Takei, editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM, and Takuya Raita, a stylist, choose a theme each time and talk about the products we have selected. We have picked out the latest items that caught our eyes from five different brands!




Edit&Text : Atsuo Watanabe(PRODISM)&Yukihisa Takei(HONEYEE.COM)
Styling : Takuya Raita
Photo : Kengo Shimizu


UNDERCOVER × PSYCHO

Jacquard Coat

“This is a product that showcases true craftsmanship" (Watanabe)

Takuya Raita (R): This coat is made in collaboration with (Alfred) Hitchcock's “PSYCHO“ and depicts a scene from the film using a jacquard weave.

Yukihisa Takei (T): UNDERCOVER often does a film-themed collection, like they did with "A Clockwork Orange" a few seasons back.

Atsuo Watanabe (W): It's such an incredible skill to depict a photographic image in jacquard. The fact that it's done by weaving not printing truly showcases the craftsmanship of this product.

R: If you look closely, you can see that it's very detailed. It's amazing how it’s done like a painting.

W: This is almost like an art piece as it’s all patterned on the back. In that sense, it makes it more desirable. It's also interesting that the base is denim rather than wool. I feel it's also very UNDERCOVER-like to bring it to the backside instead of the front side.

T: That’s what it speaks with its back.

In collaboration with the film “PSYCHO", this UNDERCOVER coat depicts a scene from the film with a jacquard weave on denim. The whole back side is done using a high level of craftsmanship.

UNDERCOVER
Denim jacquard collared jacket ¥104,500 (UNDERCOVER)
Tel: 03-5778-4805
© Universal City Studios LLC. All Rights Reserved.




visvim

Mud Dyed Vest

“The footage of the visvim clothes soaked in mud was shocking” (Raita)

W: The distinctive texture of the mud dyeing is unique.

T: I guess the commitment to this subtle coloring led to mud-dyeing.

W: I also like the feeling that the down is not fully stuffed.

R: I watched a video showing how it's made, and it was quite shocking to see visvim's clothes soaked in mud (laughs).

T: You mean the fabric is dyed before it becomes a final product?

R: No, the craftsmen dye each piece individually when it's already in the final product. The silhouette looks a bit big.

W: Including small details like the size of the buttons, but other brands are no match for visvim when it comes to making this kind of clothing.

R: Their prices are not very affordable, but visvim's items are stunning no matter which one you pick up.

T: I feel a kind of ‘worn out’ charm, too.

W: They've got a vintage-like feel. I think fans love the fact that they can get those pieces but in a new condition.

This puffer vest by visvim is mud-dyed to give it an exquisite vintage look. Made of supple and soft high-density nylon fabric with a loose-fitting, large silhouette.

visvim
WALKER DOWN VEST ¥132,000(F.I.L. TOKYO)
TEL:03-5778-3259




JUNYA WATANABE MAN × Jay Kay

Sarape Jacket

"I've watched that show video over 20 times already" (Takei)

W: Isn't this one of the best menswear products of the season? While there are so many collaborations going on, it's simply great to work with Jay Kay.

T: I think it was a way of presenting the collection that worked out because it was done digitally. I don't think it would have been conveyed well if that space had been created in physical format. The way they did it including the music, of course, and the angle of view, and all other things were done precisely like the original version and I really enjoyed watching it.

R: Was Jay Kay wearing this Sarape pattern a lot, by the way?

T: He was wearing it since the first album “Emergency on Planet Earth”.

W: I remember he was always wearing some kind of tribal clothes, wasn't he?

T: Even back then, when music videos were where you could see the latest creations, 'Virtual Insanity' was one of the masterpieces of the time. I watched that show video more than 20 times after it was released as I loved the song, and also I was being nostalgic personally (laughs).

R: You should definitely share your love in this feature (laughs).

T: But the only thing I wished was I wanted to see the adidas shoes. Jay Kay makes me think of adidas.

W: With this, people who didn't know about JUNYA WATANABE might buy it, and the younger generation might have a chance to get to know Jamiroquai through that video. That's another reason why it's significant for a fashion brand and a musician to collaborate.

R: Having heard all those past contexts like this now, I feel this is the ultimate collaboration in many ways.

T: It's also great that it's not just a 'tribute', but they did it as an official collaboration.

W: That's what is great about COMME des GARÇONS.

T: I've already secured a budget to buy a coat for this season (laughs).

R: It’s got a good balance of the pattern and the colors.

T: Perhaps (Watanabe) Junya-san also likes Jamiroquai and you could tell that he enjoyed making this collection.

W: They created that video during a time when the world is still uncertain, and I think that's what fashion is all about. It's perfect, I'll give it ten out of ten!

R: This was the most lively item ever in this feature (laughs).

A piece by JUNYA WATANABE MAN from the season in collaboration with Jamiloquay's Jay Kay. The collection incorporates his style such as the sarape that Jay Kay himself was often wearing at the time. The show video which was released digitally reflects the worldview of the 'Virtual Insanity' music video, drew huge attention. A must-watch for those who have not checked it out.

JUNYA WATANABE MAN × Jay Kay
Wool Checked Mexican Sarape Jacket ¥132,000 (COMME des GARÇONS)
TEL:03-3486-7611




TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.

Reversed Odd Vest & Reverse Henley Shirt

“I saw many pieces looked complicated but easy to wear” (Watanabe)

W: The A/W collection was great overall, including sweatshirts and knitwear.

R: I felt very strong energy from this season's TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.

W: I feel (Takahiro) Miyashita-kun has created what he really wants to express straightforwardly and concretely. Many pieces look complicated but are easy to wear in this collection.

T: Those colorful duffle coats were striking, too.

R: Amongst those, I selected these key items for this season that have a back-to-front design which is the antithesis of the current times.

W: In the past few seasons, I saw quite a few items that looked difficult to pull off, but items which seem easy to coordinate in a total outfit are highlighted this time.

T: Each piece isn’t very convincing, but this combination makes them look better than when separated.

'Henley Neck Shirt' and ‘Double-zipped Reverse Odd Vest' with back-to-front design by TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.. The use of slanted zips also works well. Although they are two separate items, they give a sense of unity by wearing them together.

TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.
Reverse Double-zipped Henley Shirt ¥66,990, Double-zipped Reverse Odd Vest ¥87,890 (TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.AOYAMA)
TEL:03-6805-1989




sacai × PORTER

Collaboration Series Bags

"I also feel a slight sense of femininity from the stitchwork" (Takei)

T: I feel a bit of femininity in the stitchwork, even though it has a military look to it. It's not too masculine.

W: Beige is a unique choice of color for PORTER and they look like a mil-spec finish.

R: This beige is a color you don't see very often. The backpack has detachable parts, so I thought it would be very useful.

W: I’m probably the type of person who would keep detachable items on.

T: I wouldn't want to lose my wallet or something if I put it in there (laughs).

W: The shoulder bag looks nice, but this drawstring bag is cute too.

R: Apparently, the drawstring bag is a new model.

T: The price range is something you can't complain about for sacai x PORTER. Still, it's great that sacai doesn't make bags to drive sales, but creates with a brand that specialises in bags.

W: That's true, and sacai's branding and the way they do collaborations are remarkable. They make their own collections, but they also do quite a lot of collaborations. They have no boundaries, in a good sense.

R: Since they’re designed by a female designer, they're classy, not too rugged.

T: I guess that's what makes sacai so unique.

The collaboration bags by sacai and PORTER that are made of a classic nylon fabric arranged in a glossy beige. It is exquisite in its use of mil-spec detailing but has a genderless feel.

sacai × PORTER
Backpack ¥126,500, Bumbag ¥61,600, Drawstring bag ¥48,400 (sacai)
TEL:03-6418-5977

(From left to right) Atsuo Watanabe, Editor-in-Chief of PRODISM, Takuya Raita, Stylist, Yukihisa Takei, HONEYEE.COM)



Atsuo Watanabe / Editor-in-Chief, PRODISM

Born in 1973. After working as an editor for Asayan and Huge, he became a freelance editor and launched the product-focused magazine PRODISM in 2013, where he continues to work as the editor in chief. He is well versed in men's fashion, sneakers, and streetwear, and has a unique aesthetic.

Takuya Raita / Stylist

Born in 1986. Having assisted for Hiroyuki Kai, he became independent in 2012. While working mainly for men's fashion magazines, he is also known for his product styling that sensitively incorporates trends. Currently looking for an assistant.

Yukihisa Takei / HONEYEE.COM

Born in 1972. After working as an editor of the magazine EYESCREAM, he became the editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM, but resigned after one year. After working as a freelance editor and creative director for various brand websites and media launches, he returned to his post as editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM in the fall of 2021.