This is a column about the stories behind fashion products and things that go on behind the scenes, delivering with a bit of a scathing perspective but with a love of products. Atsuo Watanabe, editor-in-chief of PRODISM magazine, Yukihisa Takei, editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM, and Takuya Raita, a stylist, choose a theme each time and talk about the products we have selected. We have picked out the latest items that caught our eyes from five different brands!
Edit&Text : Atsuo Watanabe（PRODISM）&Yukihisa Takei（HONEYEE.COM）
Styling : Takuya Raita
Photo : Kengo Shimizu
sacai × MADSAKI
Knit Sweater and Cardigan
“I really like their idea of playing around with art” (Takei)
Takuya Raita (R): This knitwear is a collaboration between sacai and Kaikai Kiki Gallery artist MADSAKI. The embroidery (Sheeple, Zombies and Kool-Aid) is slang for people who are easily influenced by their surroundings, and I thought it would be streety and cool for a mature person to wear such a provocative message. I saw lots of pink this season when I was doing some research.
Yukihisa Takei (T): It’s such a good pink color that even adults would want to wear.When I happened to meet MADSAKI the other day and asked him about the meaning of this message, he said, "The ironic antithesis to people today who are easily influenced by others and sacai has approved it (laughs)".
R: That's a great inside story (laughs).
Atsuo Watanabe (W): Knowing this makes these items even more attractive.
T: He has a style of work where he hand paints messages expressing his mood at the time, but it's cool that a high-end brand like sacai has accepted ironic words like this one.
W: There is a word " sophisticated streetwear for adults", and I think this item represents exactly what it means. It's streetwear, yet it's refined by working with a luxury brand like sacai. But the message is very powerful. I guess other luxury brands want to do something like this too.
T: I really like their idea of playing around with art.
W: So I've recently come to learn that enjoying street fashion can be expensive. Of course, there is more choice than pricey clothes, but I think this kind of classy, niche way of enjoying street fashion has also become an option in the last few years.
T: Specific to this item, it's a small detail but I like that it's got buttons on the side to open it up, unlike other normal knitwear or cardigans.
W: I think that's very sacai, and this pink is a good choice.
T: I’m very tempted to get this one.
W: You should buy it (laughs).
Crew neck knit and cardigan from the sacai's Autumn/Winter 2022 collection in collaboration with artist MADSAKI. MADSAKI's handwritten embroidery "Sheeple, Zombies and Kool-Aid" is an ironic slang ridiculing people who are easily influenced by others. Bright pink and slits on the sides that can be opened and closed with buttons or zips make these items stand out, which are very sacai-like.
MADSAKI Knit Sweater ¥63,800, MADSAKI Cardigan ¥69,300
A-POC ABLE ISSEY MIYAKE × YUMA KANO
TYPE-IV Yuma Kano project
“The strength of this brand is continuously making products that aren’t old-fashioned” (Watanabe)
R: This piece is from the experimental project that A-POC ABLE ISSEY MIYAKE is working on with up-and-coming designer Yuma Kano.
T: This rusty look is done by weaving.
W: It's such an elaborate product.
R: Issey Miyake brand often does artist collaborations, and I always find them impressive and keep an eye on them.
W: I also like the fact that they work with young artists. I think the strength of the brand is that they continuously make products that are not old-fashioned.
T: It's interesting how they take ideas from art and incorporate them into products using the techniques of clothes-making.
W: Also, items made with Issey Miyake's unique experimental interpretation have a certain style that you don't see anywhere else. So it makes sense that they have a loyal fanbase.
R: As well as HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE items, Issey Miyake's clothes have a distinctive cut that makes them easy to move around in.
T: I read a lot of Issey Miyake's words just the other day when he passed away, and I feel that his ideas are reflected in this item.
R: They’re always challenging experimental things.
A-POC ABLE ISSEY MIYAKE creates various "ABLE" from encounters with different fields and industries. This item is an experimental project worked on with up-and-coming designer Yuma Kano. The idea was developed from Kano's masterpiece 'Rust Harvest', expressing a three-dimensional rust texture through the thick cotton threads and complex weave structure. It elevated them to five-pocket jeans.
A-POC ABLE ISSEY MIYAKE
TYPE-IV Yuma Kano project jeans ¥55,000
ISSEY MIYAKE INC.
3 Layers Cotton Silk Parka
“The idea of making a mountain gear-like item from cotton silk is incredible” (Takei)
R: This cotton silk parka has a water-repellent film on the reverse side. It looks like nylon-made military wear, but the silk adds an exquisite elegant feel.
T: The idea of making a mountain gear-like item from cotton silk is incredible, and also the fact that they can make it into a product is technically impressive and it shows the momentum of COMOLI.
W: But I just want to know why they used this material. Do they release this with a different fabric or in a different silhouette every season? It's a versatile design, so not just COMOLI fans, but also other people would wear it.
T: It's cool when adults wear a fine product like this. And people think it's made of nylon, but it’s actually not.
W: Maybe it's just for breathability, but when people ask "What's that material?”, I want to answer, “It’s cotton silk" (laughs). Also, it's water-repellent, so it would be good to wear when travelling.
R: I also like this exquisite brown color.
COMOLI’s classic piece that's released every season with different details and materials. It features a mixture of US military ECWCS parka and mountain parka design and, it comes in a slightly larger size than the previous season. The outer material is made of black and brown cotton silk, with water-repellent film on the reverse side, a unique technique that would not normally come up with.
3 Layers Cotton Silk Parka ¥154,000
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus × Nike
NIKE AIR MAX 97
“I don't want people who buy footwear for investment to wear them” (Watanabe)
R: This is their third collaboration for Air Max. The faded part is made of leather and the embroidered part is finished in the same color as the shoes.
W: These are the ones models were wearing in the show, right? I like they don't have the Comme des Garçons logo on them.
R: And the price is 41,800 yen.
T: It's a decent price for a collaboration with Comme des Garçons, especially using leather. Also, I feel like many people buy Comme des Garçons Homme Plus x Nike shoes to weaer for themselves, so the resale price won't really rise.
W: I probably said this before, but Comme des Garçons' exclusive sneakers are designed to be worn as part of an outfit, so maybe they don't appeal to sneaker freaks who prefer decorative products.
R: I agree, these kind of shoes are difficult to match with other clothes.
T: I can imagine wearing them with Comme des Garçons silhouette trousers.
R: I think it also goes well with black-and-white styles.
W: It's a collaboration between two such well-known brands, but it's a pair for people in the know. I don't want people who buy footwear at famous sneeker shops for investment purposes to wear them.
The two brands have been continuously collaborating with each other. Air Max 97, one of Nike's masterpieces, is arranged by Comme des Garçons this time. By incorporating textured leather into the unique wavy upper, it creates a new look while retaining the original model's character.
COMME des GARÇONS HOMME PLUS
NIKE AIR MAX 97 ¥41,800
COMME des GARÇONS
“These are more like detachable hoods” (Raita)
W: The item name is "balaclava." but it looks like a removable hood or neck warmer.
R: That's true, these are more like detachable hoods.
W: Maybe you can match it with other clothes from this season's TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist.? I saw items such as duffle coats and knitwear in the same color options.
T: It's a bit tricky to be convinced to buy, but it might be practical to have one.
W: Isn't it useful for people who like the outdoors?
R: Many other brands actually released balaclavas this season.
T: Oh, I remember some brand make a silk balaclava.
R: A friend of mine was riding a bike wearing an attached hood and I thought it was really cool.
W: I guess it's a good alternative face covering for cyclists.
Despite the name of the item being balaclava, the design looks like a hood removed from a parka and it can be worn over the head or as a neck warmer. It's also distinctive for the multiple spindles and grommet design. The use of materials is also outstanding, such as the stuffed original 60/2 lined fabric made from shiny Superior Pima cotton.
terry balaclava. ¥21.890
(From left to right) Atsuo Watanabe, Editor-in-Chief of PRODISM, Takuya Raita, Stylist, Yukihisa Takei, HONEYEE.COM)
Atsuo Watanabe / Editor-in-Chief, PRODISM
Born in 1973. After working as an editor for Asayan and Huge, he became a freelance editor and launched the product-focused magazine PRODISM in 2013, where he continues to work as the editor in chief. He is well versed in men's fashion, sneakers, and streetwear, and has a unique aesthetic.
Takuya Raita / Stylist
Born in 1986. Having assisted for Hiroyuki Kai, he became independent in 2012. While working mainly for men's fashion magazines, he is also known for his product styling that sensitively incorporates trends. Currently looking for an assistant.
Yukihisa Takei / HONEYEE.COM
Born in 1972. After working as an editor of the magazine EYESCREAM, he became the editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM, but resigned after one year. After working as a freelance editor and creative director for various brand websites and media launches, he returned to his post as editor-in-chief of HONEYEE.COM in the fall of 2021.