Vol.2：FREAK’S STORE、MANHOLE、After School
HONEYEE.COM has launched a selection series with first-line buyers who active in the Japanese fashion industry. They will recommend and evaluate the current season's items with a critical eye. Three buyers who appeared in Vol.2 are from FREAK’S STORE, a large-scale selection store dominated by American and outdoor styles, MANHOLE, a well-intentioned staff, and After School, a representative store in Niigata.
Text Takaaki Miyake
Translation Zhuoqin Li
In September 2020, FREAK’S STORE renovated the main store and the first store in Furukawa, and opened a new co-working space in the store in April this year. This time, Yoshihisa Amanuma, the buyer and MD of FREAK’S STORE, will bring us a recommendation for a single product.
"This exclusive model, based on BARBOUR's BEDALE, has an improved profile and a modern flavor of FREAK'S STORE. The basic colors of Black and Olive are chosen. The inner lining is still the same as the British line. The classic plaid pattern retains the original British flavor.
The whole vibe is based on the feeling of 'American BARBOUR', so it will be very suitable to match with vintage military pants or loose-fitting Chino. According to the season, I would recommend a shirt or a preppy sweater in early fall, and a chunky knitted sweater in winter. At this temperature, the half-zip sweater is also very suitable. "
The exclusive model of FREAK'S STORE and BARBOUR's collaboration had been released in 2021. This time, the version of Dingfan BEDALE has been slightly improved, showing a more relaxed effect. The original BEDALE JACKET was born in outdoor horseback riding activities. In order to allow the body to move freely during use, this work has added the design of double slits on the hem and raglan sleeves. The wax-free feel makes daily care relatively easy. On top of the classic models, the consideration of modern living habits is integrated into the design and transformation.
BARBOUR Exclusive Model BIG BEDALE ¥51,700
FREAK'S STORE Shibuya
FREAK'S STORE Men's MD / Buyer
When he was in the middle school, he was obsessed with fashion trends, and began to collect all kinds of Vintage items based on American vintage. Influenced by the unique American style of The Beatles, he had a short-term exchange study in the UK when he was in college, and had a full taste of European culture. After 10 years of experience in Sales and MD in a shoe brand, he joined DAYTONA INTERNATIONAL as a buyer in 2017. Currently, he is engaged in men's MD and buyer work in its selection store FREAK'S STORE.
MANHOLE is a shopping mall located in the semi-basement of an old-fashioned apartment in front of aoyama gaien. In-store, you can find everything from designer brands to shoes, dresses, vintage, and more. There are three employees in charge of store planning and purchasing. Among them, the owner Kagawa recommended the latest project item for us, the Italian-made thin stick knitted sweater.
"Following last year's half turtleneck knitting, this year we continue to work with the factory in Bologna, Italy, to create the knitwear items planned by MANHOLE.
This time, the thin stick wool knitted Polo uses Gauge28-30 wool fiber, which combines soft feel, luster and lightness. The collar basically determines the overall feel of a shirt, so we spent a lot of time adjusting to the desired effect in this part. First, collect all your own clothes, and refer to them one by one regardless of the age of production. Then I found out that we all love the old styles made by the knitting specialist brands in the UK, the nostalgic atmosphere is very charming.
Of course, with the change of time, the collar design will definitely change. We want to show that retro taste, but if we just blindly imitate the version of the past, it always feels almost meaningless. So I simply tried to lower the collar position, and finally adjusted to the ideal balance. After this step is completed, the rest is to determine the size of the version and the design of the details, and hand it over to the factory.
Although the price is not "cute" at all, it is still very satisfying to finally achieve what we want. Through such a simple and elegant single product, it can show everyone's own personality, whether it is lively or low-key. "
This time, the thin stick knitted single product can be said to be a collection of all the ideas of MANHOLE. The planned vision is created by the store itself, and the bold creativity is quite eye-catching. At the same time, in terms of knitting technology, it has continued the blessing of the same factory with many high-end knitting brands such as the French H company, and the quality is equally important. In terms of colors, there are a total of five colors: yellow, lavender, lime green, dark brown, and white gray. It is expected to be released in mid-November, 2022. The many colors are very confusing, and you may end up accidentally entering them all.
18finezza Knit polo L/S ¥63,800
〒107-0062 Central Aoyama Room 003, 4-1-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
MANHOLE Owner / Buyer
A 34-year-old curly right-hander man was born in Tokyo in 1989. He loves fishing, and his personal skill is brass instruments. His favorite food is bran fruit. Melon is the food he hates badly. He always reads comics in his spare time.
Located in Niigata City, After School has a unique concept of "proposing a school that improves lifestyles" through fashion and culture. As the name suggests, after school is like ‘wanting to go shopping somewhere after school’. After School has launched a variety of "courses", such as inviting creators and artists to hold workshop activities and so on. So, what is the recommendation brought to us by the buyer and clerk of this "school" as the root bridge?
“I personally recommend this Midorikawa floral cropped jacket in Deadstock fabric. The goblin weave provides a solid feel, while the sheer organza on the outer layer creates a unique and elegant atmosphere.
The new design of the inner and outer layers is very branded. Details such as the large hem on the front and the enlarged snap buttons all over the body can be said to fully explain the designer's artistic thinking. The rarity of Deadstock fabrics alone is quite enticing. "
This short jacket, from Midorikawa, which has been in the hands of designer Midorikawa since the spring and summer of 2017, uses Deadstock fabrics quite luxuriously. While the floral patterns and details are elegant, the silhouette maintains a classic menswear vibe. With the accumulation of wearing years, and slowly taste the traces of wear brought by it, it must be interesting.
Midorikawa MD22AW-BL02A ¥127,600
After School Staff / Buyer
He was born in 1989. He is now as a buyer of After School, and he also works as a store clerk. He hopes to convey the charm of more items to customers from the perspective of a buyer. In addition, he also serves as the director of the sister store CC, and can be described as "versatile" in the clothing field.